12 December 2008
"Stocking Coal"
Who's on your Naughty List?
We have chunked up three out of four logs of Stocking Coal into approximately 3oz
pieces, and have sold or gifted most of it. The stuff makes people smile.
How does one make black soap and not get black suds? Activated charcoal. I
ordered some based on some recent chat on the soap forum, and indeed, it works
beautifully and suds white. It is scented with essential oils of anise, orange
and lavender.
Having grown up in coal country in Western Pennsylvania, I am reminded of a hard
tack candy, called Anthracite, which was strongly anise flavored and may have been
placed in my stocking (it's been a long, long time and I was very bad!). The soap,
in fact looks more bituminous, but no matter, coal is coal! It's a perfect match
for all those on your Naughty List!
22 November 2008
Holiday Gift sets are here!
Holiday prep is in full swing. Our mantra lately: "Soap is recession proof"!
The gift of soap is like choosing just the right card to say "I love you", "thank
you", or "thinking of you this season". It is personal and touching, and not much
more expensive than a special greeting card, or a cup of fancy Joe! So, if you
can't afford much more than a card or coffee, you can
afford to splurge on a bar of finely made bar of artisan soap for friends, family,
kids' teachers, employees, or whomever is on your gift list this season.
22 October 2008
The aspens are blazing yellow against crisp blue sky this time of year around
the Savonnerie. We have been racing to beat winter's onset. The wood is almost
stacked. A few pieces were left for the unenthused adolescent dear daughters to
finish. The last of the potatoes were unearthed this past weekend. The bounty
is impressive. Five varieties are all bejeweling the water tank in the pump house.
Would that they could winter in a root cellar...perfection, and another project for
some future day. The chickens are molting in force now, so the day's haul is
down. The days grow shorter. The sun shines, the days have been comfortable,
but snow is not far off.
21 October 2008
"Mélange"
A Seasonal Limited Release
Some soap creations don't birth easily. "Mélange" is one of those. I had many
ideas for the dark, cold season, but had difficulty chosing among them.
I have been thinking a great deal about plant materials used
as fixatives in fragrance blending. There are many available, including animal
based materials, which each have fascinating histories and make great story telling.
But Frankincense and myrrh were my choices as the foundation for this seasons offerings,
because they are evocative of the season, and I had not yet worked with either.
Frankincense and myrrh are obvious choices for the holidays, but most of us have
no idea what they smell like. Both of these oils are actually resins,
gum resins extracted from tree bark. They have been used for thousands of years
and in the case of frankincense, was highly valuable as sacred material. I
experimented with many combinations, but couldn't make a blend to my taste.
I started with spicy combinations, using the other obvious-for-the-season essential
oils, such as cinnamon and clove, but this wasn't right, for reasons I couldn't
explain. Instead, I wanted something softer. I was thinking "cashmere", so I
played with florals. Finally, Roman chamomile presented herself, she proved a
worthy choice. Vanilla is always soft and finally the scent was falling into
place. Lavender is always complimentary to any blend, but particularly with
chamomile. Oakmoss was added for more depth and earthiness.
The pricetag was mounting, but this was going to be a "special" selection. Now
for the final look. Precious metals in a swirl. And for this, micas were chosen
in gold, copper and bronze.
I wish I could say that everything came off beautifully, but it didn't. Such is
my experience with the holidays anyway. I'll spare readers the details of each
misstep, but the result, while not a total disaster was nothing that I expected or
wanted. The scent was divine, but the overall appearance was dismal. Vanilla is
notorious for discoloration. Knowing this, I cut way back on it, but it still
made the batch muddy brown. In all the murkiness, the mica was lost, and what did
show made the appearance even more hideous.
I was determined to save what I could, so I reincarnated the whole thing into a
mosaic, by chunking up the original batch and incorporating that into a more
neutral base. Now the micas could take center stage. My only problem was, I'd
never made a mosaic, much less a mosaic swirl.
This time the soap goddessess were in a more approving mood, and let a good thing
happen. It came off better than I imagined, and was a more attractive holiday
offering than my original plan. There is wisdom in not resisting when life throws
a brick in your soap pot! I proudly present, Mélange, (and offer the goddesses
frankincense and myrrh!).
23 September 2008
Castiles, better known at the Savonnerie as Bastiles, are ready!
There are three available, but I'll say a few words first about this unique and
very old soap style.
Castiles were born in places where olives are King. They are 100% olive oil,
and are much loved around the world for being kind and gentle to all skin types.
Olive oil is high in oleic acid, an acid which is particularly water loving.
This humectant, or water drawing characteristic is great for holding
moisture close to the skin, but it is also the reason Castiles become quite
slippery in the shower. People either love or hate this about Castiles...revilers
call it "slime", fans call it "slip". Great for shaving, by the way.
You can't coax much bubble from a Castile either. Oleic acid is not a fatty acid
that produces suds, it is more conditioning than cleansing (auto mechanics take note!).
This non-stripping quality is another hallmark of an olive oil soap.
With this in mind, we bring you "Bastile", which is a bastardization of true Castile.
The tag along oil in the following soaps is castor oil, which is known for
creating lots of bubble, but is not a heavy cleansing oil. Time could, and
probably will, be spent another time on castor itself. Two other oils have minor
parts, hemp and avocado, both are especially conditioning, like olive oil.
Why discuss Castiles now when they were made just after the first of the year, a
full nine months ago? They are finally ready to use! Castile/Bastiles need
quite a long curing period. When particularly dry, they last a very long
time, and are less slippery (or slimey) to use.
Here are the Bastiles available:
"Silver Leaf Bastile": Creamy yellow with a hint of green. The essential oils are
a blend of silver leaved plants such as lavender, clary sage, sage, green yarrow,
artemisia. The top of the soap is wavy, looks like cake frosting.
"Indian Summer Bastile": Bittersweet and warm, like the end of the season it is named for.
A combination of rose, pink grapefruit, lavender, coriander, rosewood, sandalwood,
and vanilla. A smidge of avocado oil makes this one particularly soft.
"Leap Day Bastile": Made on that day in February of this year, often confused with
fudge at the market! It is light brown and wavy topped. Scented with lavender,
coriander and vanilla. A bit of hempseed oil is added for additional conditioning.
3 September 2008
"Cucumber"
A Seasonal Limited Release
The end of the market season is approaching in Central OR, in fact, our little
market just wrapped up on Labor Day weekend.
The weather must be taking the hint too. Frost hit the garden in the last few days.
Not everything is burnt, but the corn is looking "Octoberish" and not one ear
has fully ripened. The squash is, well...squashed. The beans are bedraggled,
but edible. All is not lost, but it's a good thing I didn't wait to make
cucumber soap from my very own cukes!
Instead, I got cucumbers from one of the produce vendors at our market,
(thanks Niko!) and tried my hand at a veggie soap. Soap doesn't really care what
liquid it is given to make itself, within reason. Almost any watery vegetable
or fruit can become part or all the liquid needed for saponification. A decent
blender is the only requirement.
Agave nectar and aloe are additives. A word about Agave...suds! Sugar is
grand for adding more bubble. And it is the only sugar I know that turns the
mixture a brilliant bright orange, which then mellows out to a warm ochre during
the cure. Flecks of green from the cucumber skins show through for added interest.
The scent is a vegetal floral. The scent of plant material used in soap making
rarely comes through, but the choice of essential oils: petigrain, Oregon
bergamot mint, Oregon lavender and oakmoss absolute somehow suggest cucumber with
a hint of sweetness. Shoppers take a whiff and agree.
Although Niko was sure I was committing vegetable abuse when he handed over his
cucumbers, he was surprised and relieved to be handed back a bar of cucumber
alchemy!
Last words of thanks to my dear web guru for recent tweaks. The logo is up on
the header now! And thanks, once again to my remarkable sister for the refined
rendering.
25 July 2008
"Samadhi"
This particular creation is a meeting of the minds between
Angelina and
me. The name and scent are already an established selection of body products,
which Angelina creates in her little
Herbarium
in Bend, OR. I have made a soap
to complement her other Samadhi's. We are well through the second large batch,
and time to make a little more.
There is a reason Samadhi is sought after. Even if you have no background in the
practice of yoga, one sniff and you will know what the word means: transcendental
bliss or joy. A perfect balance of Earth and Air. Lemongrass wafts, sandalwood
anchors. In-between are vanilla and cardamom for warmth, and a titch of black pepper for spice.
The elements playing together...nothing but a swirl would do. I used cocoa, carob
and pau d'arco powders for the swirl, against a creamy light yellow background.
The cocoa scent rarely comes through in the final bar, but vanilla somehow
asks the cocoa to take a small role. Shoppers at my booth often say they can
smell chocolate. I would agree. So slight, but present.
All that said, Samadhi is sensual and deeply joyful.
6 July 2008
"Earl Grey"
"Rose Santal"
"Relief"
"Ginger Twist"
"Forever Lavender"
"Repose"
It has been forever since I've entered a thing about soap! Lots to report...
Life in the fast lane in a slow place might describe my recent life. Frankly,
slow places like Sisters, OR are filled with hardworking, sun-up-to-sun down kind
of people to rival any urban "fast lane" kind of place.
My very kind and talented sister is working diligently on my logo and labels.
May I say, they are stunning, just beautiful. Wholesale accounts are picking up
and it was high time the Savonnerie got a proper logo and professional labels.
It may seem like a small thing, but to this Mad Soap Woman, it brings tears to my
eyes. My graphic artist, designer sister has been an artist since she
could hold a crayon. Her talent is dazzling, and it doesn't hurt that she "gets
me".
After much correspondence, and many hours of work, the labels should
be ready for the first run this week, just in time for getting soap on the shelf
in one of the local shops in time for "Quilt Show" weekend, one of the biggest
weekends of the summer in Sisters. Thank you, dear Connie!
Happy Birthday, on the 5th to my dear daughter turned 12! She's my hard
working soap beveller and doer of many little soapy tasks.
A bright new day to my dear friend and brains behind this computer, the gardens,
lover of the animals and fowl that populate the acreage and tender of all that needs
doing in life here and everywhere. Warm Birthday wishes for your 50th.
On to the latest soaps...
"Earl Grey"
Could this be my signature soap? The idea for my daily cuppa, expressed in soap,
has been twirling in my brain for some time. The most obvious color for this one?
Brown, of course. What better colorant than tea itself? I made an incredibly
strong infusion of black tea...five to ten fold, in fact, for the liquid. I
left one fourth of the soap uncolored for a creamy swirl.
Essential oil of bergamot gives Earl Grey tea its distinct flavor, ergo the
predominant scent in Earl Grey, the soap. Since the scent of black tea
would not come through in the final soap, vetiver, rosewood, amyris were made to
stand in.
"Rose Santal"
Personally, I'm not the biggest fan of straight rose, except when my nose is
buried in the real thing! Rose does love sandalwood and lavender, however,
so they all play together in this very femininely colored pink soap.
Rose and Rhassoul clays provide the solid "pink". They are also wonderful for
slip and don't interfere with bubble. This one will make many a girl happy,
especially since she'll be able to shave her legs with Rose Santal too. Clays
are the basis for shaving soaps of old, after all. Love the clays!
"Relief"
Speaking of clays...Relief is replete. I am loving this little beauty.
This one is a dual clay layer soap, half and half. France meets Australia.
Australian blue and black clays make the grey bottom layer. French green clay
and comfrey leaf infused extra virgin olive oil provide the green top layer.
There is another meeting of the two countries in the essential oil blend. Eucalyptus,
niaouli and myrtle meet lavender and peppermint. (Nothing particularly French
about peppermint...artistic license!). Folded orange finishes.
No spa should be without Relief, nor should your shower!
"Ginger Twist"
Warmer climates were the inspiration for Ginger Twist. I've never been to the
tropics, except in my imagination. Mango butter as an additive oil
was a must, as was avocado oil. Both are gentle and emollient.
I am over the moon about cold pressed lime essential oil. Eyes closed, it is as
if a freshly cut juicy lime just passed under your nose. Fresh ginger essential
oil conjures the waft of freshly grated ginger. Together they are magic.
"Forever Lavender"
Some of us cannot get enough of lavender. It can be grown in Central OR, quite
well, in fact. Among many, many other plants growing in the Savonnerie gardens,
lavender has its very own large bed, and a few other varieties scattered in other
beds. They are just beginning to bloom at this writing.
This soap was made with the hope that someday, La Petite Savonnerie will distill its
perfect essence right here. Oregon and French lavenders make up this nearly
straight lavender blend.
Alkanet was used again for the swirl and it is beautiful. This time I infused the
root in extra virgin olive oil. You can't imagine a color as deeply wine as this.
Wine itself doesn't compare. When lye hits the oils, the amazing morphing from
deep raspberry to denim blue to grapey purple takes place. The final bar...deep
lavender.
"Repose"
A gentleman at the Farmers Market "whiffed" Repose and said, "Ah, I need
this!" making Mad Soap Woman very happy. This was today's reward.
The bar is the color of slate, a color miss that worked this time. Some color
forays are just plain sad. Red sandalwood powder in soap is burgundy purple,
but quite scratchy in the bar. To avoid this, I infused the powder in extra virgin
olive oil for the first time. The resulting oil was deep red. I was so pleased
with the red wine color developing as I stick blended the batch. I poured it in
the mold. Much later, I came back to check the soap and discovered it had morphed
into deep grey...disappointing, but not unpleasant. That would be lye, just
doing its job.
One need not be a patchouli fan to love Repose, though it is the predominant
essential oil. Clove, lime and folded orange blend in to complete a scent that is
neither citrus, patchouli or clove. It is the angle of Repose, to borrow from
contemporary literature! Wallace Stegner, I believe.
Dawn Mead
PO Box 795
Sisters, OR 97759
541-548-6424